THE SERIOUS STICKS DIDJERIDU FORUM

WELCOME !
It is currently 21.11.2018, 15:52

All times are UTC + 1 hour




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 29 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 30.03.2008, 18:03 
Offline

Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
Posts: 13
Ok....maybe not the end. But in this picture you can see one main crack and another smaller one.

I have already purchased the famous WEST SYSTEM G/Flex Epoxy and am waiting for comments from this forum on how bet to prepare the repair.

Should I bevel the crack a little with an Xacto knife and should the crack be sanded a bit too?

I have also bought some adjustable clamps (like the automotive type or radiator ones you screw with a screwdriver to expand or contract) to clamp on during the bonding process.

So I just plan on applying the epoxy and clamping the clamps.

I appreciate your comments on affecting the repair.


Attachments:
File comment: Yidaki crack
cracked.jpg
cracked.jpg [ 180.76 KiB | Viewed 5031 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 31.03.2008, 00:21 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 22.01.2007, 21:04
Posts: 55
Location: portland
That is a mighty fine crack you have there!

I would personally NOT use Epoxy, particularly on the large crack. With a crack that large, I see no reason to prep. I would simply liberally apply Titebond 3 to both sides of the crack. Use a toothpick or something similar to work glue all the way to the small end of the crack. You could possibly use a razor blade, X-acto knife, or scalpel to open up the small end, though you probably will not need to.

Then close the crack with hose clamps. Put one every inch or so and work from the small part of the crack towards the bell, slowly adding tension. Wipe off excess and let sit for at least a few hours. A little sanding/paint touch up the next day and you are good to go.

The smaller crack looks more like an Epoxy type hole. I would be hesitant to clamp that crack based on the one photo you posted. I would probably just fill that crack and not attempt to close it up. My concern would be in stressing the other side of the stick, as well as possibly extending the crack.

Blending the Epoxy with some sawdust will make it an easier to use paste for filling, and will prevent it from running to the inside. I have used a tied off bicycle tube to plug the inside before as well. Shove it in and inflate, prevents drip through!

Again, overfill the crack and let it harden for a day or so. Then sand and touch up the paint. If the small crack was a wee bit smaller, you could fill it with Titebond and then sand cross grain to fill the crack with a slurry of dust and glue. That big, and I would go with the Epoxy.

Woodglue is more flexible and for a full blown split, I would want the properties of glue, especially since your stick is not coated. I would want the seam to move with the wood and glue has properties closer to wood than Epoxy. Epoxy would probably work, my preference for the big crack would however be glue for its increased elasticity.

Another trick is to drill a small hole at the termination of all the cracks. This can help dissipate the stress in the wood. Basically find the end of the crack and drill a hole all the way through, in the neighborhood 3-4mm wide or so. Do this before gluing/filling or clamping.

After filling and sealing all visible cracks, I would oil the wood with a mixture of Citrus oil, Tung oil, and Boiled Linseed oil. A ratio of 3:7:2 works well for me. This will brighten the tone a bit, but will also help regulate moisture transference and protect the wood a bit from nasty cracklies!

Does that help?

_________________
www.hallowedsounds.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 19:37 
Offline

Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
Posts: 13
Okay...First off WOOD GLUE, such as TITEBOND III actually SUCKS!

The small crack that you see in the first picture was filled with titebond III woodglue and some sawdust....but it didn't work!

Anyway the STICK HAS BEEN FIXED.

Here is what I did to affect the repair:

1. Drill holes all the way at the ends of cracks.
2. Bevel the crack to make a valley or V shape to it.
3. Use the BEST of the BEST glue called WEST SYSTEM G/FLEX!!!!
4. Stuff some ROLLED brown paper bag into the stick so the glue doesn't drip into the bore.
5. Clamp down and let dry
6. Sand and paint
7. Play the stick!

It sounds just like before.


As you can see from the picks I did add some filler to the very large crack at one portion only because the glue was falling through. I used some sawdust and some high density filler it the GFlex came with.


Attachments:
File comment: Bevel or make a V shape, valley.
bevel1.jpg
bevel1.jpg [ 116.79 KiB | Viewed 4987 times ]
File comment: The best EPOXY in the world!
gflex.jpg
gflex.jpg [ 197.66 KiB | Viewed 4973 times ]
File comment: Now OKAY!
done.jpg
done.jpg [ 104.34 KiB | Viewed 4957 times ]
Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 20:00 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 14.12.2006, 22:13
Posts: 242
Location: London
Very nice repair!

Well done!

Colin

_________________
http://www.aboriginalarts.co.uk


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 20:33 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 18.03.2006, 03:07
Posts: 1732
Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Now would be an excellent time to oil the repaired stick to help regulate moisture loss from the wood.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 20:50 
Offline

Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
Posts: 13
Hi, You mean OIL the inside?

If so, it was already oiled by Guan down under in AU.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 21:00 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 17.03.2006, 21:22
Posts: 1002
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
the_z wrote:
Hi, You mean OIL the inside?

If so, it was already oiled by Guan down under in AU.


The bore of the stick still does look very dry to me and I definitely would oil it again. Oiling a very dry bore once is usually not enough, I'd do it 3 times in the first 6 weeks or so, then every 6 months for the first year or two, after that, once a year dependig on how much you play the instrument.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 21:02 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 17.03.2006, 21:22
Posts: 1002
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
That reminds me: how often and for how long per session have you played the stick after receiving it?


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 21:05 
Offline

Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
Posts: 13
I played it for about 30 min. about a week after i got it...but then it got cold at night....and hence the crack.

By the way, what do you particularly use for the oiling of the bore? I want to go as natural as possible.

Thanks guys.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 21:23 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 17.03.2006, 21:22
Posts: 1002
Location: Zurich, Switzerland
the_z wrote:
By the way, what do you particularly use for the oiling of the bore? I want to go as natural as possible.


The mixture that Jeff (hallowedsounds) recommends does the job perfectly. The ingredients are all natural (if you take normal linseed oil and not the cooked one). Some people seem to have an issue with tung oil as it's apparently slightly toxic when it's very fresh. That seems to go away pretty fast though and at the stage where you buy it, all of it may have gone already. It's definitely harmless once dry.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.04.2008, 21:41 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 14.12.2006, 22:13
Posts: 242
Location: London
Quote:
Some people seem to have an issue with tung oil as it's apparently slightly toxic when it's very fresh.


According to an expert in the field, a UV light zap will make the Tung oil harmless - but please watch your eyes if handling a UV source!

Colin

_________________
http://www.aboriginalarts.co.uk


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 03:14 
Offline

Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
Posts: 13
Well this stick keeps cracking on me! Had a few more cracks but have to keep epoxying it. The neck just seems to get too hot and cracks afterward. Is there anyway to do some kind of a "super" seal inside and out? Or just inside and not out...or just outside? I don't know at this point. It has been "sealed" with oils on the inside recently but apparently this is not enough.

Thanks guys.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 04:05 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 02.04.2008, 05:09
Posts: 267
Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
http://laoutback.net/didgeridoo/shop/didjgear.html
scroll down a bit to find the "super epoxy"
although ive not tried it personally, i plan to on my bamboo one.

as for oil, i use
100% pure Tung oil 80%
Organic lemon oil 10%
Eucalyptus Oil 5%
Organic Tea Tree oil 4%
Japanese peppermint 1% (just a few drops)

i make about a cup or two at a time. the measurements are not exact, just wing it. itll be fine. let fry for like 3 full days.

also, i recommended you get a thickly insulated bag or case for that stick if you dont have one already. this will heal against thermal shock. the conditions in your home dont seem to be too conduitive for good stick health. just a suggestion. also look into a high end humidifier (not one that just sprays out mist) for the room its being stored in.

_________________
I Do Not Have A Soul,
I AM A Soul.
I Have A Body.

www.myspace.com/kind_vapour

I Like You..
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 04:32 
Offline

Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
Posts: 13
HI,

I didn't see any "SUPER EPOXY" there only a Epoxy Resin Coating...is that the for inside the bore or for the outside?

Thanks


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 16:15 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: 24.08.2006, 00:30
Posts: 248
Location: dacusville, south carolina
HI Z

I don't have time to explain all things other than that the wood cracks because of stress
do not clamp because you are restressing the wood. :idea:

_________________
Play nice and carry a big stick!!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 29 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

All times are UTC + 1 hour


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt.