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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 19:38 
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Joined: 22.01.2007, 21:04
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I would give you my advice, but you didn't seem to be very appreciative last time.

:pottytrain5:

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 21:35 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Well thanks....after some reading and pulling hair to decide what to use..I"ll just go with Tung Oil. Don't want to use danish oil upon further reading on the subject.


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 21:44 
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Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
be sure to get 100% pure.
dont bother with the minwax or old english brands. they are very toxic and have very very little actual tung oil. i got mine from realmilkpaint.com

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 21:48 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Thanks....I"ll have to take back my FORMBY"S tung oil...and order the 100% pure! Forgot about that. How many ounces will I need for a few applications? Is the oil reusable after sloshing around in the bore?

Would it be necessary to mix with boiled linseed oil? Because I read many places here people like to mix the tung with the linseed and if so is the home depot quality boiled linseed sufficient?

Appreciate it.


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 21:56 
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Joined: 02.04.2008, 05:09
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Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
they use linseed (again natural not boiled) as a carrier oil to help penetrate and dry a bit faster (not much faster though) Its not a bad idea to use it, but i dont use it much. i have boiled linseed and lemon oil for the outside (may not be good for your yidaki (mago?)) ochre and oils dont mix..
for the inside though im pretty particular about toxicity.
Also keep in mind that the oil that runs out is reusable. so have a safe container to keep the extra (save some cash that way) i use the dark brown pill bottles that are glass, and usually have high end vitamins or what ever. check your local health (vitamin) food store and see if they have any for sale. sometimes you can pick up several of these jars for a few dollars. (very handy)
im sure you can call the FORMBY's phone number and ask about the tung oil actual amount. ive not hear of that, so it may be fine, but if it donst say 100% pure, i wouldnt risk it.

Let me know how it works out bro!
Kind

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 22:31 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Thanks...I also found this article on some Woodworking forum...pasted below:

Quote:
Don't be so certain. Nothing is certain when you try to differentiate between fact and marketing when referring to finishes. This is particularly true of the use of the words "tung oil'.

Formby's is a thinned varnish, pure and simple. It even says so right on the label. There is no real tung oil in it at all.

True tung oil comes from the nuts of a tree that grows in China--and some other parts of the world. A product that is a true tung oil will have a label that says either "pure" or "100%". If it doesn't say that on the label, IT ISN'T TRUE TUNG OIL. Forget about all the other baloney and look for one of those two words if you want to use a true tung oil. If the label contains any other chemicals, except a thinner, you are not getting a true tung oil.

"Tung Oil Finish" is a marketing expression for products that the manufacturer thinks will give you a finish like the finish you get from a true tung oil. These "Tung Oil Finishes" may or may not contain some true tung oil, but most do not contain any true tung oil. Their only claim to the use of the word "tung" is that it claims to give you the appearence of finish that results from tung oil. You're buying a "faux tung oil finish".

There are two types of "tung oil finishes". One is mixture of varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits (called an oil/varnish). The exact mixtures are proprietary but 1/3, 1/3, and 1/3 will get you real close. Some manufacturers add a dollop of drier to speed up the drying. This same mixture is frequently also called "Danish Oil" because it gives a finish that resembles the finish used on much of the "danish style" teak furniture imported in the 50's and 60's. It closely mimics a true oil finish but the addition of the varnish resins gives it more durability and protection.

Here are some oil/varnish mixtures:*
Deft Danish Oil
General Finishes' Sealacell
Behlen Danish Oil
Maloof Finish
Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Tung Oil Finish
Minwax Antique Oil Finish
Velvit Oil
Watco Danish Oil
McCloskey Tung Oil Finish (contains pure tung oil, not linseed oil)

The second "tung oil finish" is one made from varnish and mineral spirits. The approximate ratio is 1:1. This is really just a thinned varnish just like the stuff sold as "wiping varnish". When one two or three coats are applied, it also mimics the finish produced by a true oil but it is harder than the oil/varnish above because it does not have as much oil. It is slightly more protective than the oil/varnish type or tung oil finish. For all intents and purposes it is a varnish finish.

Here are some thinned varnishes:*
Minway Wiping Varnish
Watco Wiping Varnish
Formby's Tung Oil Finish
Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
Val-Oil
Hope's Tung Oil Varnish
Gillespie Tung Oil
Waterlox
General Finishes' Arm R Seal
Jasco Tung Oil

One way to tell whether the product is an oil/varnish or a wiping varnish is to read the application instuctions. Oil/varnishes are applied, then given some time to set, then wiped dry. Wiping varnish products are wiped on an left to dry (no wiping off).

Finally, I'm not saying that any of these products are not good. In fact, they are a more protective and durable finish than any pure oil finish. They are what they are and can give you a good finish when properly applied.

* Products list courtesy of Bob Flexner
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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 22:34 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Yeah...I'll definitely take back this commercial stuff and get the 100% pure tung oil.

Anyone heard of or used TEAK oil?


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 19.04.2008, 23:11 
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Joined: 02.04.2008, 05:09
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Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html

thats where i get mine from. i get it @ 32 ounces. not too much, and easy on the wallet. fast shipping and all that as well. it should last for many years to come.

as for teak oil, i cant find any pure teak anything, and what i read about it most said it was just a tung and linseed mix. (gotta love marketing)

so good luck with that.

}< = \/

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 20.04.2008, 00:16 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Thanks...I am getting that tung oil asap! BTW, how long do you swoosh the oil in the bore?

Z


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 20.04.2008, 01:42 
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Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
i hack the mouthpiece off, get a cup and a bucket. cup for pouring the oil, and the bucket for catching it. Pour the oil (or oil mix) down at about a 45 degree angle, and slowly rotate the stick while your pouring. you'll probably want a buddy to help. do this several times. if you run out of oil just make more. (which may happen, if your stick is really dry) i had a stick soak up an entire cup! i do this about 10 times slowly turning the stick to fill in all the grooves. make sure to wipe off any oil that may try to run up or down the outside. also i like to shine a flashlight into it, to see if i had missed any parts. which shouldn't happen if you pour through enough times. then set vertical in a bucket (not the oil bucket LOL) with some shop paper to absorb the leaking oil. itll drip for about 3 days. check and wipe off ends and sides often to remove any creeping oil on the outside. by the 4th day it should be ready to play. it wont fully dry for a week or more. but it wont be dripping any more.
then repete several more times over the next 6 months. say every month or so. then once a year should be fine.
that reminds me, my latest sticks are due for their second treatment.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 20.04.2008, 01:55 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Thanks Kind Vapor....Cheers and wicked stick playing to you!


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 20.04.2008, 04:42 
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Joined: 02.04.2008, 05:09
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Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
Quote:
Epoxy Resin Coating...is that the for inside the bore or for the outside?

http://www.gourddidgeridoo.com/gourddid ... urown.html
it talks about making gourd Didges (which is on my to-do list) but it goes in depth of how and where to use the epoxy's.

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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 22.04.2008, 22:55 
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Joined: 29.03.2008, 17:43
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Alright! I received that 100% Tung oil from the site you (Vapor) recommended above! (SUPER FAST SHIPPING TOO) I oiled the stick with about 8 ounces and was finally left with about 2 ounces of oil. Now the stick is drip drying, which I am sure will take a few days but I am pretty sure it will have soaked in about a total of 4 ounces. That pure tung oil was wonderful. I was really amazed and it smelled so pure and nutty!

I am taking back that Formby's shyte to walmart ....the pure tung oil ruleth!

The project was not as clean as I wanted because I got oil all over the outside of the stick, which was a bit messy but I the oil was so nice I wanted put it in my hair and even drink it! So, I rubbed the outside of the stick with the oil hoping it would be okay.


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 Post subject: Re: Cracked Yidaki....End of the world? I am Screwed!
PostPosted: 23.04.2008, 04:42 
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Joined: 02.04.2008, 05:09
Posts: 267
Location: 8" Zone, Georgia
it should be ok, but i dont have any Ochre painted sticks so i cannot speak from EXP. but i do that to the outside as well. let it sit for an hour, wipe off any excess.
check the stick a few times a day, turning it, and wiping the bottom ends, to spped the dryong process just a little bit.

im glad you liked the tung oil. ill never buy another base oil again!

(told you about the shipping too. LOL)

peace
Kind

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