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 Post subject: That fu**ing sigle drop of oil...
PostPosted: 29.08.2006, 22:28 
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Joined: 10.04.2006, 18:51
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Location: Italy
Ok people... now i really need your help...
i was oiling a new yidaki that i got, but an unnoticed drop of oil dropped to the ochre cross-hatch work, which the top colour (of course grrr) is white...
so the white become half trasparent and yellowish....
i tried to absorb the oil with some talc, but without success...
how can i fix it? or in the worst case.. what can i use to repaint the white??
this is the instrument:
Image

i'll post a pic of the mess tomorrow
thanks

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PostPosted: 29.08.2006, 22:39 
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Location: Zurich, Switzerland
Well, there's not much that you can do except waiting for the oil to dry completely and then trying to repaint the white lines. Which is very diffcult to do without a proper hairbrush and some training.

Worst of all, oil stains tend to return with time even after being touched up.

Sorry, but I can't be much of a help in this situation


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PostPosted: 29.08.2006, 22:39 
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Joined: 18.03.2006, 03:07
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Location: Pennsylvania, USA
Well....get used to seeing that discolored bit on the white pipeclay :? It's notoriously sensitive to oils of any kind. You MIGHT be able to find some white pipeclay dry pigment from an art supplier, especially one that deals in hand-mixed oil paints.


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 Post subject: Re: That fu**ing sigle drop of oil...
PostPosted: 30.08.2006, 06:18 
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Joined: 24.08.2006, 00:30
Posts: 248
Location: dacusville, south carolina
saldali wrote:
Ok people... now i really need your help...
i was oiling a new yidaki that i got, but an unnoticed drop of oil dropped to the ochre cross-hatch work, which the top colour (of course grrr) is white...
so the white become half trasparent and yellowish....
i tried to absorb the oil with some talc, but without success...
how can i fix it? or in the worst case.. what can i use to repaint the white??
this is the instrument:
Image

i'll post a pic of the mess tomorrow
thanks

I am guessing here,but I think fullers earth(better known as kitty litter) might be the cure.
goto http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/fullers.php

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.09.2006, 14:05 
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Joined: 18.03.2006, 00:50
Posts: 750
Location: Canada
Hi there

There he is that stick ,very nice yidaki and in good hand .Best of luck for the repair

GGW


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 01.09.2006, 18:31 
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Joined: 10.04.2006, 18:51
Posts: 141
Location: Italy
that drop.....

thanks for the help, i'll try first with that clay, and if doesn't work... argh.. i'll have to retouch it 8)


Attachments:
Thatdrop.jpg
Thatdrop.jpg [ 82.22 KiB | Viewed 6269 times ]

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PostPosted: 01.09.2006, 21:41 
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hi there

hmm i see , no fun at all .Your painting look solid tough .

GGW


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 02.09.2006, 09:37 
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Location: Italy
not my painting there, that's Lorraine Yalmakany's work

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PostPosted: 02.09.2006, 13:42 
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hi there

Sorry for my frenglish :oops: i wanted to say the painting on your yidaki :wink:

GGW


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PostPosted: 02.09.2006, 14:21 
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ok :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14.09.2006, 17:44 
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Location: Italy
any suggestions on how to make a human hair brush??? :wink:
:D

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PostPosted: 14.09.2006, 18:24 
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Joined: 18.03.2006, 21:38
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Location: In ya flower bed...
Just a few thoughts from me, ignore them if you like...

Over the years the ochres will wear and smudge and chip and have beer and other stuff spilt on them as Nature intends. They will build up a story of the yidaki's life. Are you going to repaint it every time and deny the instrument the story of its life?

If you repaint it, it will never be original artwork. Having original artwork with a small oil stain is far better than unoriginal artwork that's covered one up.

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PostPosted: 14.09.2006, 18:43 
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Location: Canada
Hi there

Well Loretta this is what i think too! and i feel releif i am not the only one who think that :) My Daphné Banyawara as already a long long life after 3 month :shock: I just cant resolve my self to repaint it ,half of the white is already history on the half of it . And sorry i dont beleive in fixative in long term .

Saldali if you look for a nice brush go to an art store they have all kind ,you can find some cheap to very expansive and that will do the job even better . :wink:

GGW


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14.09.2006, 19:59 
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Joined: 18.03.2006, 03:07
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Location: Pennsylvania, USA
I actually don't mind some fading with my sticks and it definitely adds to the character of the stick. Took me a while to get to this point- after all I buy my yidaki to play! A worn stick is a used one!

This said, I do at least take precautions to prevent cracking problems- slow break in periods, oiling periodically, a little common sense with handling, etc. Personally, I would at least try to take some steps to preserve some of the most spectacular artwork, like the exquisite linework of Lorraine Yalmakany on some of the instruments Guan has on offer through IDIDJ.

Saldali, a little retouch might go well, but you won't be able to match it. Perhaps it's best to just leave it alone.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 14.09.2006, 20:19 
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Hi there

Jason wrote
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I would at least try to take some steps to preserve some of the most spectacular artwork,


If i repaint the top half where the white ocher as deseaper ,i will this time put more glue in the mixture but you will see a difference with the buttom half and i am not talking that i have a different brush stroke of Daphné Banyawara. Not sure its going to very nice .Then the buttom part will sooner or later deseaper like the upper part and i will have to repaint the buttom part ! will i find the same pigment with exactly the same tone ...hum i am more than septical here .
I am not talking here for a litlle retouch ,just want to make sure you understand

GGW


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